The world's first signboard

This site has the distinction of having the world’s first sign board and symbols of the signboard can still be seen on the ground. Another first in this site is that the world’s first water management system has been excavated here.

What is more striking is that the archaeological finds here date back to the Indus and Harappan Valley Civilizations and this is one of the few sites that can takes us through seven important stages of the civilization right from its inception or origin to development,  maturity to decay and finally its abandonment.

The site can throw light on the origin of Indian civilization and the high level of engineering skill that they possessed. Though this site was discovered in 1968, it was only from 1889 that the archaeologists took up systematic excavation leading to some startling discoveries.       

The thirteen field excavations between 1990 and 2005 have so far brought to light the urban planning and architecture of the people of those ages apart from unearthing a large numbers of antiquities, including seals, beads, animal bones, gold, silver, terracotta ornaments, pottery and bronze vessels.

Though books on history and archaeology have prominently highlighted this site, it is still relatively unknown outside academic circles.

This is Dholavira, an archaeological site in Bachau taluk of Kutch district in Gujarat.

Known locally as Kotada timba,  the site contains ruins of an ancient Indus Valley and Harappan civilization. It is one of the five largest Harappan sites and today is ranked the most prominent archaeological sites in India belonging to the Indus period.

It is also considered as grandest of cities of its time and excavations so far have revealed a high level of urban planning.

Dholavira is located on the Khadir bet island in Kutch Desert Wildlife sanctuary in what is known as the Great Rann of Kutch. The area of the fully excavated site covers more than 100 hectares or 250 acres. Archaeologists date the town to 2650 BCE, declining slowly after about 2100 BCE. It was briefly abandoned and reoccupied until 1450 BCE after which it once again subsided into history.

The site was discovered in 1967-68 by J. P. Joshi and it is the fifth largest of eight major Harappan sites. It has been under excavation since 1990 by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and the other seven sites are Harappa, Mohenjo-daro, Ganeriwala, Rakhigarhi, Kalibangan, Rupnagar and Lothal

The ASI took up excavation of the site in 1989 under the direction of R. S. Bisht. Estimated to be older than the port-city of Lothal, this city had a rectangular shape and is composed to a pre-existing geometrical plan, of three divisions – the citadel, the middle town and the lower town.

The acropolis and the middle town had been further furnished with their own defence-work, gateways, built-up areas, street system, wells and large open spaces. The acropolis is the most carefully guarded as well as complex in the city of which it appropriates the major portion of the southwestern zone. The towering castle stands  a little apart and it is surrounded by double ramparts. Next to this is the  bailey where important officials lived.

The city within the general fortification accounts for 48 hectares or 120 acres. There are extensive structure-bearing areas though outside yet integral to the fortified settlement. Another settlement has been discovered beyond the walls.

The most striking feature of the city is that all of its buildings are built out of stone, whereas most other Harappan sites, including Harappa itself and Mohenjo-daro, are almost exclusively built of brick.

More remarkable is that Dholavira is flanked by two storm water channels; the Mansar in the north and the Manhar in the south.

Signboards

The Dholavira signboard was discovered in one of the side rooms of the northern gateway of the city.

The Harappans had arranged and set pieces of the mineral gypsum to form ten large symbols or letters on a big wooden board. At some point, the board fell flat on its face. The wood decayed, but the arrangement of the letters survived.

The letters of the signboard are comparable to large bricks that were used in nearby walls. Each sign is about 37 cm (15 in) high and the board on which letters were inscribed was about 3 m (9.8 ft) long.

The inscription is one of the longest in the Indus script, with one symbol appearing four times, and this and its large size and public nature make it a key piece of evidence cited by scholars arguing that the Indus script represents full literacy.

A four sign inscription with big size letters on a sand stone is also found at this site, considered first of such inscription on sand stone at any of Harappan sites.

Ten such large stone inscriptions, carved in Indus Valley script, have been discovered. They are now acknowledged as the world’s earliest signboard but unfortunately they remain tantalizingly undeciphered.

Water works

There is a well-constructed underground drainage system for sanitation. There is also a large stadium with a complex structure and seating arrangement.
Finally, Dholavira has one of the world’s earliest water conservation systems ever excavated. Satellite pictures show a reservoir underground, an expertly constructed rainwater harvesting system extending from the walls of the city, without which the settlement would not have thrived in the sparse rainfall of the desert.
It is one of the two largest Harappan sites in India and fifth largest in the subcontinent. Like Lothal, it passed through all the stages of the Harappan culture from circa 2900 BC to 1500 BC, while most others saw only the early or late stages.
This site revealed the most remarkable water management systems, which are perhaps the earliest systems of their kind in the world, dated to about 5300 years.

The unique water-harnessing system, together with a storm-water drain, is a remarkable piece of engineering. A seven-metre deep rock-cut reservoir with a confirmed length of 79 metres was a significant discovery.

This should rank as the most stupendous feat of engineering of the period as it has been cut through rock, together with a storage tank and 50 stone-steps. Another, equally deep reservoir of fine stone masonry was also found. The reservoirs skirted around the metropolis which was fortified with stone-walls while the citadel and baths were centrally located on raised ground.

A large well was discovered and it was equipped with a stonecut trough to connect the drain meant for conducting water to a storage tank. Circular structures found at the site, conjoining like the figure eight are surmised to be used for bathing.

Another structure is a bathing tank with steps descending inwards.

Water from the nearby streams were harnessed and gathered into a reservoir and further moved to charge the dug wells which

supplied water to parts of the metropolis.

The floor of the tank is water tight due to finely fitted bricks laid on edge with gypsum plaster and the side walls were constructed in a similar manner. To make the tank even more water tight, a thick layer of bitumen (natural tar) was laid along the sides of the tank and presumably also beneath the floor.

Brick colonnades were discovered on the eastern, northern and southern edges. The preserved columns have stepped edges that may have held wooden screens or window frames. Two large doors lead into the complex from the south and other access was from the north and east.

A series of rooms are located along the eastern edge of the building and in one room is a well that may have supplied some of

the water needed to fill the tank.

Dholavira is much different from Lothal and other places. Here, you can take in the surrounding environment which has its own unique flora and fauna.

The journey to Dholavira itself is beautiful, taking you through the saline desert plains of the Great Rann, where you can spot wildlife such as chinkara gazelle, nilgai (blue bull, the largest antelope in Asia), flamingos and other bird life.
Dholavira is 250 km from Bhuj and it can be reached either through Bhachau or Rapar. A bus leaves from Bhuj at  2 p.m., and arrives at Dholavira at 20:30. It leaves Dholavira at 5 a.m.,  the next morning and returns to Bhuj by 11:30 a.m. It is also possible to rent a vehicle from either of the cities.
The nearest airport is Bhuj. There is a guest house in Dholavira. Want to become the first in the world to decipher the Indus script and unravel the mystery of the world’s first signboard. Then head for Dholavira.

Hunting for a husband

This is perhaps one of the most famous fairs in the world. Tourists and pilgrims from all over the world gather at this place to witness this fair, which has its roots in antiquity.

Mostly celebrated by the local tribals, the fair is steeped in legends and dates back to the times of the Mahabharata. Unlike other fairs which celebrate a religious function, this one is unique and the tribal youth come down here in all their finery to look for a suitable bride.  

This fair thus is more of a match making exercise and it is held at the exact spot where the Swayamwara of Draupadi was held and where Arjuna won her. It is this connection of the Mahabharata that make this fair a unique one with a distinct “epic” flavour.

The fair is called Tarnetar after the name of the pace in which it is held. It is available as part of the Rajkot-Tarnetar tourist circuit. This area was earlier part of the Panchal Desh.  
Tarnetar fair is celebrated every year  between  the fourth and sixth days of Shukla Paksha, near Thangadi in  Saurashtra, Gujarat.

The fair is a three day event that is held at the Shiva Temple and the deity here is better known as Trinetreshwar.
The fair is closely associated with the swamayar of  Draupadi. It is near the Shiva temple here that Arjuna defeated all other kings who had participated in the Swamyavara.

This ritual has cone down for centuries and today the tribal youths of Gujarat come here to look out for a life long companion. Folk dances, folk music and folk art is part of the fair to give it a Gujarati touch.
Youths of the Koli, Rabari, Khant, Bharwad, Charan, Kanbi come here and sit back under some of the most eye catching tents you can ever come across. The women, dressed in all their finery, walk across and then select their companion.

The women go around these umbrellas.  If a woman stops to talk to a man in the tent, it is a sign of her willingness to marry him. The marriages are solemnised after the fair.

There small pond near the Shiva temple is also the stuff of legends. It is near this pond that Arjuna stood, looked at the water and shot his arrow at the revolving fish hung above. This was the contest arranged during the Swayamvara.

The pond is considered sacred and the devotees believe it has miraculous and curative power. Pilgrims, visitors and of course the would be brides and brides groom  do not leave the fair without sprinkling its water on their bodies.

Tarnetar  is situated near Rajkot and it is part of  Surendranagar District. Surendranagar is the nearest railway station on the Ahmedabad-Hapa broadgauge line. The nearest town with road transportation is Chotila, which is about 25 km away. There are regular buses from Rajkot (75 km), Jamnagar (162 km), Ahmedabad (196 km) or Porbandar (252 km) to Tarnetar.

The nearest airport is Rajkot.

The Tourism Department of Gujarat arranges for tented accommodation at the site of the fair. A few well-decorated mud huts with modern amenities are also available.

The temple chariot of Krishna that turned out to be a fake

It was 2001 and a chariot was taking Lord Krishna around in a procession. There is nothing unusual in this. India is a land of temples and almost every temple has a chariot.

The presiding deities are taken around in a procession. In this case, too the presiding deity of the temple was Lord Krishna and the Utsava Murthy was being taken around in a chariot. What made this event all the more poignant was that the chariot was being used after 21 years.

So what, you may ask. In many temples, chariots are out of order or under repair and the chariot procession stays suspended for some time. However, this really was a unique occasion.

The original chariot had come back to the temple after 21 years. Did you know what had happened to it.

The chariot had been given for repairs to a carpenter and realising the antique vale of the magnificent wooden vahana or vehicle, he had sold it to an antique dealer and replaced it with a fake one.

The story of the “stolen” chariot did not end here. It was recovered from the antique dealer by the police. Though the police did get in touch with the temple authorities and even after they identified it as theirs, it took 21 long years for the entire process of court case, conviction to be completed before it could be harnessed for religious uses.

Well. We have heard and read about jewel and idol thieves and even miscreants breaking the temple hundi. This perhaps must be the first incident in public domain when a chariot has been stolen and replaced with a fake one.

This happened to the temple of Krishna also called as Temple of Madhavarai in Madhavapur in Gujarat.

Madhavapur is a coastal town in Porbandar district. It is located near the Arabian Sea. This small temple town is very well-known in Gujarat as the place where Lord Krishna married Rukmini.

Krishna had carried away Rukmini from Amravathi in Maharashtra and his chariot had stopped at Madhavapur. He got married to Rukmini here and a Krishna temple has been constructed at the place where their marriage took place.     

 The Rama Navami here is special as devotees throng the temple in thousands to witness the chariot procession. This was the day when Krishna married Rukmini.

A businessman from Bombay had visited the temple moiré than 160 years ago and he donated the chariot etched with wooden horses. The chariot was as big a draw to the devotees as the deity.

With the chariot suffering wear and tear, the temple management decided to get it repaired. In 1987, the chariot was dispatched to a carpenter in Junagadh who promised to carry out the repairs.   

The carpenter was stunned to see the exquisite work on the chariot and he sold it to an antique dealer in Jaipur. He then cleverly replaced the original chariot with a fake one and sent it back to the temple. He even collected the amount for repair of the chariot.

By then, the original chariot reached Jaipur via Ahmedabad. Unfortunately for the antique dealer, a team of CBI officials raided the place and discovered the chariot.

The chariot was identified by the members of  a management committee who were shocked at the duplicity of the carpenter. Then began the long wait for the chariot. The legal battle over the chariot took 18 long years and the temple trust finally managed to get back the chariot.

It was only in November 18, 2006 that the CBI handed over possession of the chariot to the Madhavarai temple. The original chariot was then used for the first time after 21 years and that too in 2009 after undertaking suitable repairs.

Thousands of people, particularly from the Ghed area nearby, celebrate Krishna’s marriage with Rukmini, with pomp and gaiety. The beach here is very beautiful.

Madhavpur is 70 Kilometres to the north of Somnath (Veraval) and 80 Kms from Dwarka.  

The place where you can hold a Dinosaurus egg in your hand

This is one of the biggest Dinosaurus hatcheries in the world. This is also the place where you can find evidences of the life and death of the dinosaurus.

Geologists and palentologists believe that at least thirteen species of dinosaurus lived in the area. No wonder, more than 10,000 eggs of dinosaurus have been  discovered here and more and more are being unearthed.

As of now, this place is labeled the third largest hatchery in the world. What is more this perhaps is the only place in the world where you can hold in your hand a dinosaurus egg and other parts of the animal dating back to 65 million years.

Unfortunately, this site is almost unknown outside the scientific community. Though its is located a little more than an hour’s drive from Ahmedabad,  it is still to gain popularity among the lakhs of tourists visiting Ahmedabad and Gujarat.

This is the village or rather small town of Balasinor in Gujarat. The scientific community hails it as home to the one of the largest dinosaur fossils sites in the world. 

This is the very place which can be termed as a nesting ground for the Dino. It would be tempting though to call it a prehistoric burial ground for Dinos because of the presence of the large number of Dino fossils and eggs.

In 2003, palentologists discovered a species of Tyrannosaurus Rex and called it Rajasaurus narmandensis.

All these fossils are preserved in a 72-acre area called Jurassic Park of India. One of the most stunning exhibits is the fossilised remains of a snake that dined on dinosaur eggs.

This 67 million-year-old skeleton was found in a dinosaur nest on the vast grounds of Balasinor.

The 3.5 metre long fossilised snake fed on the hatchlings of sauropods. It was found wrapped around a baby Titanosaur. This is believed to be the first evidence of feeding behaviour in a fossilised primitive snake.

Researchers believe that the surreal scene depicts the snake attacking a hatchling that was just emerging from the egg. It was at precisely this time that a huge storm or any other natural calamity wiped out the Dinos and it also froze this scene for posterity. The site is a geologist’s paradise.

You can see part of a Dino limb fossiled in a rock, remains of skin, bones, fossilised egg rings and even a real dinosaur egg fossil.

You can also feel and touch a 65 million year old egg fossil.

Aaliya Sultana Babi, the former princess of Balasinor,  conducts tours to the dino sites. Her interest in preserving and protecting the site has given her a new name-the Dinosaur Princess. She is one of the very few English-speaking guides.

Balasinor, also called as Vadasinor, is in Kheda district. It was a small princely state ruled by the Babi or Yusufzai Pathans. The kingdom came into existence in 1785.

Balasinor is about one and a half hours drive from Ahmedabad. The distance is 107 kilometres. Tourists can stay in the Garden Palace, a heritage hotel property run by the Babi rulers of Balasinor. You can also stay in Camp Dinosaur tents on site.

(This is the final part of the earlier article in the blog called –The Indian Dino)

Rajasaurus-The Indian dinosaurus

It was 1981 and two geologists from the Geological Survey of India (GSI) were mapping Rahioli and surrounding areas of Kheda district in Gujarat.

When the geologists, G.N. Dwivedi and D.M. Mohabey, reached a quarry near Rahioli, workers of quarry belonging to a private cement factory showed them some round or circular balls.

The geologists found that the structures were fossiled eggs of dinosaurus.

Many such eggs were unearthed  from a limestone bed near the quarry. Apart from the eggs, they also found several fossiled bones.

(What they did not know was that they had stumbled upon the discovery of an indigenous type of dinosaurus, which was native to the Indian sub-continent only.)

An year later, another geologist from the GSI, Suresh Srivastava, of the paleontology division of Jaipur, collected many fossiled bones of the dinosaurus. He also marked the precise coordinates of the area. This work went on from 1982 to 1984. Ashok Saini, a paleontologist at Panjab University, was also involved in the search for fossiled eggs and bones.

Subsequently, Suresh Srivastava and U B Mathur, under supervision of S. C Pant, cleaned up the fossiled skeletal parts of the dinosauras. Several papers came to be published in national and international journals about these fossils.

In 2001, the American Institute of  Indian Research, New Delhi and the National Geographic Society of USA sponsored further research on these fossils and the fossil sites. Under the project, two US researchers, Paul Sereno and Jeff Wilson, reconstructed the collection of dinosaur bones gathered in 1983 and 1984. The team came to the conclusion that the dino found in Gujarat closely resembled the one found in Madagascar.

Later, fossils of  the same type of dinos were found in Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. This type of dine came to be named as  Rajasaurus Narmadensis.

The Rajasaurus are abelisaurs and so far it is known to have occurred only in the Indian peninsula. Research so far has revealed that the Rajasaurus was alive when the Indian sub-continent had separated itself from the Gondwana landmass. After separating itself, the Indian sub-continent was moving north.

The Rajasaurus was at least 30 foot or nine metres in length. It was  a horned carnivore that hunted other dinosaurs about 65 million years ago.

The full name of the Indian dino is Rajasauras Narmadensis. While Rajasaurus means princely lizard,  Narmadensis means dinosaur from the Narmada river.

Today, Gujarat boasts of having among the most abundant of dinosaur hatcheries in the world. Geologists say that the presence of dinosaur eggs, bones and skin impressions suggest a widespread presence of dinosaurs.

The temple in an ocean

There are temples in India and abroad at almost every conceivable place. There are hundreds of temples near rivers, on rover beds, islands and even on hills and mountains.

The Tugnath Temple is believed to be the highest structure. Similarly some of the temples in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Jammu and Kashmir are located in places where there is very little or no human presence.

However, this temple takes the cake as it is located bang in the middle of the ocean. This could perhaps be the only temple in India and if not the world to be situated within an ocean.

This is the temple of  Koliyak and it is located  about 23 kilometres to the east of Bhavnagar in Gujarat. According to a legend, the   Pandavas consecrated the idol of Shiva or Nishkalank or Nakalank Mahadev on a new moon night in the Indian calendar month of  Shravana.

The idol was consecrated on a small plot of land surrounded by the Arabian Sea. This small island, which is submerged most of the time in the ocean, is situated about 3 kms from Koliyak.

The Pandavas consecrated the idol soon after the Kurukshetra war. Since they wanted to wash away their sins of having killed their cousins, the Pandavas prayed at the Linga here which is, therefore, also called as Nish kalank or the sin less. There are five lingas and each of the linga was consecrated by a Pandava. There is a beautiful statue of Nandi in front of the lingas.

The temple can be accessed the day next to the new moon day between 9 a.m., and 12 noon. The temple and even the small island-it is only a small outcrop and not and island-gets inundated by the ocean and all visitors and pilgrims should leave the temple by 1 p.m.

Generally, the waters of the ocean recede after the new moon. Infact, the adventurous walk to the temple in knee-deep water.    

You can access the temple only in low tide and you have to row into the ocean to get there. The temple is 1.5 kms into the ocean.

When the ocean gets rough or during times of high tide, you can find pilgrims anxiously waiting for the waters to recede. They spend time in prayer meditation and singing. The months of August and September see the maximum recession of the ocean waters and this considered to be the ideal time to visit the temple.    

Bhavanagar is a city and it is 200 kms from Ahmedabad, the capital of Gujarat. It is well-connected by road and rail network. There are a variety of transport from Bhavanagar to Koliyak.