The temple of Sala and the tiger

Who has not heard the tale of a small local chieftain Sala, slaying a tiger and then going on to establish the Hoysala dynasty.

The Hoysalas ruled large parts of Karnataka and were engaged in a battle of supremacy with the Chalukyas and the Cholas. As with the other dynasties, the origin of the Hoysalas is full of obscurity and the tale of Sala and the slain tiger is one such legend.

However, do you know tat there is a small but obscure place in Karnataka where this legend is supposed to have taken place several centuries ago.

Though no trace survives to tell us of the heroic Sala who defeated the tiger, there are enough historical and archaeological records to support the fact that Sala did live in this hamlet which today is away from the tourist circuit and barely receives visitors.

There is also a temple which is associated with the legend of the tiger. Nestled deep within coffee plantations and estates of Chikamagalur, this place today is slowly emerging out of its slumber and is all set to take its rightful place as one of the many plcaes in Karnataka that showcases Hoysala art and architecture.  This is Angadi or Sosevur, the place where Sala slew the tiger and went on to found the Hoysala dynasty.

Angadi today is a small hamlet with ruins of five temples and Jain Basadis which are among the oldest structures of their kind. It is in the temple of a Goddess Vasanthika here that Sala killed the tiger while he was with his preceptor.

The ruins of Chennakesava, Patalarudreshwara and Mallikarjuna temples welcome you as do two basadis of Angadi, which in Kannada means a shop. The hamlet is in Mudigere taluk and it was originally known as Sasakapura or Sosevur by the Hoysalas.

Sala, the legends say, was walking here with his Guru, a Jain ascetic called Yogendra Sudatta. They had come to Angadi to worship Goddess Vasantika Devi when suddenly a tiger came menacingly towards them.

Taking an iron rod, Sudatta handed it over to Sala saying, Poy, Sala Poy, meaning “Strike, Sala”.

Sala then took on the tiger and killed it. The story then found its way into several Hoysals symbols, including the crest in many temples.   

The crest depict Sala killing a tiger and even several copper plates and coins belonging to the Hoysalas show a dead tiger and a rod. Sala was thus the first ruler of the dynasty though not much is known about him.

Coming back to the ruins, the Jain basadis  date back to the 10th century. One of the basadi is called Makara Jinalaya and it was  built by Manika Poysalachari. It has a huge idol of Shantinatha in a seated posture.

The second basadi is called Neminatha Basadi and it contains images of Neminatha, Chandranatha and Gomateswara.

The three other ruins we see are that of temples. The carvings date the structures to the early Hoysalas.

It is the temple of Vasantika Devi or Vasanthamma, which is closely associated with Sala and the tiger. The temple has been renovated and it has huge figures of Saptamatrikas (seven mothers) in stucco, wearing crowns.

Records say the Hoysalas built 1,521 temples across 958 centres. Today only 434 temples survive across 238 centres.

Angadi is 18 kms from Mudigere, 25 kms away from Belur and 260 kms from Bangalore. Angadi is well connected by road and it can be reached from the Belur - Mudigere route. You need to take left at Janapura junction and the village is just 6 Km from here. Angadi can also be reached from Chikamagalur and Sakaleshpura.

Kudremukha - The thirteen trekking routes to this hill station

This is the second largest declared wildlife protected area of a tropical wet evergreen forest in the Western Ghats. The forests here are so dense and the canopy so thick that though it hosts a variety of wildlife, including tigers, it is impossible to sight the animals so easily.

It is also the place where three important rivers pf the State take their birth. It is also part of the world’s bio hotspots.

The south and western sides of the protected national park are part of the steep slopes of the Western Ghats ridge line and the altitude varies from 100 metres to 1892 metres.

The North, East and Central portions of the park are part of a  chain of rolling hills with natural grassland and shola forests. The average rainfall here is around 7000 mm, and this makes it one of the wettest places in India.

It is so rich in wildlife that it harbours the largest contiguous population of lion tailed macaques in the Western Ghats outside of the Malabar region.

What makes this region all the more unique is that it has more than thirteen recognised trekking routes, each with its own character and unique charm.

Till a decade ago, one of the highest grade of iron ore in the world was mined here until the Supreme Court stepped in and banned mining. Since ten mining has come to a stop and wildlife has thrived. The scared environment is showing signs of regeneration.

This is Kudremukh or Kudremukha in Kannada, which means Horse face. It is a beautiful hill station in the eastern ranges of the Western Ghats in Chikamagalur district in Karnataka State.

Set amidst picturesque forests, undulating hills and thick forests, the small but beautiful hill station is 48 kilometres from Karkala and 20 kms from Kalasa.

One side of the Kudremukhs resembles the face of the horse and, hence, the name. Locals also call it Samseparvata, as it was approached from Samse village. It was primarily a mining town till it was stopped by a Supreme Court Bench of Justice Arijit Pasayat and Justice S. H. Kapadia. The judgment is a superb and painstaking work which is available in public domain. It is considered a landmark judgment in the annals of Indian judiciary.

Coming back to Kudremukh, it has enough of everything-wildlife, trekking routes, bountiful nature, rare fauna, water falls, hills and valleys and Shola grass.

It is in these ranges that the Tunga, Bhadra and Netravati take birth. The Kadambi waterfalls is breathtaking. The tiger reserve and the forests are full of sloth bear, Wild dog or Dhole, Spotted deer, Snakes, Malabar Civet, Gaur, Sambar, Leopards, Jackals, Lion tailed Macque, Porcupine, Mongoose, Barking deer,

Giant flying squirrel and Malabar Giant squirrel.

It is also home to 195 rare species of birds. You cans sight

Malabar whistling thrush, Imperial pigeon, Great pied hornbill

Malabar trogon and several others.  

The best time to visit Kudremukh is between October and May. Eucalyptus, Grevillea robusta, Casuarinas and Acacia auriculiformis are common trees here. There are also tea and coffee plantation.

This is also a habitat for the Lion-tailed Macaque and it  probably harbours the largest contiguous population of lion tailed macaques in the Western Ghats.

The national park overlooks the Arabian Sea and it is spread over thick hilly forests near the coast and shola vegetation on the Western Ghats uplands It covers the districts of Chickmagalur, Udupi and Dakshina Kannada.

The Kudremukh peak is 1892 meters high. Trekking to Kudremukh peak is from 6  a.m., to 5 p.m., after which you will be not allowed as per forest rules.

The KIOCL Dam is nearby. It remains drained most of the time. Hanuman Gundi Waterfalls is a beautiful spot but you are allowed only between 10 a.m., and 4 p.m. It is located 32 kms from Kalasa, the waterfall and the water falls onto natural rocks from a height of more than 100 feet. The trek to the falls is slightly difficult. The best time to visit this place is between October and May.

You have to take prior permission from the Forest Department to stay back at the peak or anywhere near the park.

The Samse - Kudremukh trek takes four days and three nights, covering more than 40 kms. A longer trek is Navoor - Hevala - Kudremukh – Navoor and this is five day, for night exercise covering more than 60 kms. Another good trek is the 50 kms Horanaadu – Sringeri route. This trek takes three days and two nights and the distance is just a little more than 30 kms.

The Nature Camp in Kudremukh is a beautiful place to stay and enjoy your time.

Well, my suggestion is head for the Kudremukhs and forget all the rest. Leave yourself to enjoy Nature at its best.

Kemmangundi-Reaching for the clouds

Emperors and poets have fallen in love with it. So have lakhs of people who have visited it. The name of this place itself is mysterious and romantic.

It was once the summer retreat of the Wodeyars who built a small but beautiful palace here. They then donated the palace to the State Government, which today owns it.  The view of the Sunset from the erstwhile royal residence is absolutely stunning and it is once in a lifetime experience.

If “Kunidhu Kunidhu Bare” from the Kannada film Munguru Male showed Jog in all its glory, there have scores of films that have showcased the beauty of this place and they are so many of them that it would be a shame to name only a few.

Kannada film legend Dr. Raj Kumar stayed here for the shooting the film Premada Kanike which was shot here. More than 40 per cent of Kannada films have picturised the beautiful landscape rolling hills, gurgling streams, rising sun and misty mornings. 

Tamil actor Kamalahassan shot here for his film Panchatantiram and made a reference to this place.

Over the last few centuries it has also been attracting the religious minded. It has become the seat of controversy as the deity here is claimed by two communities. Though outsiders have jumped into the fray, the local people here have always lived a life of peace and calm.

Poets and writers have sung realms in praise of this area. Karnakata’s Rastra Kavi, K.V. Puttappa or Kuvempu as he is more affectionately known, sang about it beauty. This place is also home to the tallest peak in Karnataka.

Though it is popularly known as the Queen of Hill Stations, it is still thankfully not as popular as say Ooty, Kodaikanal or any of the other surrounding hills.

This is Kemmengundi, a magical hills station in Chikamagalur district of Karnataka. A remarkable place, it has water falls, trekking paths, forests, wildlife, temples, hills, deep ravines, gardens, parks and what not.     

A tourist paradise, Kemmangundi has remained relatively off the tourist radar compared to hills and forests surrounding it such as BR Hills, MM Hills, Gopalaswamy Betta and Madikeri.

Kemmangundi is also known as Sri Krishnarajaendra Station. This name is in memory of Krishnaraja Wodeyar, the fourth, who built a small palace or rather bungalow here. It was his favourite hill station and summer retreat. The Maharaja often watched sunsets from the bungalow and went on horseback around. The horse trail can still be seen and you can enjoy a ride.

The Maharaja later donated the bungalow to the Government and now its management vests with the Department of Horticulture.

There is a beautiful place called Z-point which is about 10 minutes walk from the bungalow. This point gives a fantastic view of the surrounding forests. Kamal Haasan's Panchatantiram has a reference to this.

Kemmangundi is in Tarikere taluk and it is located at a height of 1434 meters above sea level. Kemmangundi is also known as Sri Krishnarajendra Hill Station.

Kemmangundi is surrounded by the beautiful Baba Budan Hills, which is the home of the Dattatreya Peeta and the Dargah of Baba Budan.  The cave holding both the shrines has become controversial and there is heavy police bandobast.

By the way, coffee came to India thanks to Baba Budan and Chikamagalur is home to some of the most evocative local coffee. Sip the coffee and spend time.  

Kemmangundi is known for its tastefully laid out gardens, magnificent mountain ranges and superb valleys. No wonder filmmakers have always chosen this spot. Many films of Dr. Raj Kumar were shot in and around Kemmangundi.

The main attractions are the Raj Bhavan  or the guest house of the Governor, Z point and the Rose garden which is maintained by the Horticultural Department.

The view of the Sunset from the Raj Bhavan is nothing short of a heavenly experience. The clouds floating above seem so near and the wild Nature beneath seem a perfect setting for a family.

The trek or drive from Mullayanagiri to Kemmangundi is nothing short of poetry of Nature. It is Nature at its very best and remember Mullayanagiri is the highest peak in Karnataka.

Some of the tourists spots. Which are described in more detail, are as follows:

Z point

This is a vantage point it and can be reached by a rather steep uphill trek of about 45 minutes from Raj Bhavan. This is one of the many places in Kemmangundi to view the Sunset. The Shanti Falls is nearby. The best time to trek is either in the morning or late afternoon.

Rose garden

This is one of the most beautiful gardens in the area. It is maintained by the Department of Horticulture. There are several varieties of  roses and they are a treat to watch and enjoy.

Hebbe Falls

This is about eight kms from Kemmannugundi. The water here falls from a height of  168 meters in two stages. The first stage is called Dodda Hebbe  or Big Falls and the second which is smaller is called Chikka Hebbe  or Small Falls.

The Falls is about eight kms from Raj Bhavan.

Jeeps are available to Hebbe falls and the charge is Rs. 700 to Rs. 1200  for a trip but this depends on the number of people.

Kallathi falls

This is near Kallathi village and it is 10 km. from Kemmangundi. It is on the road from  Kemmangundi to Tarikere. A small deviation on this road will take you to the falls. It is also known as Kallathigiri falls and Kalahasthi falls.

Water falls from a height of 122 metres and the temple here belongs to the Vijayanagar period. According to a local legend, this place is associated with the Rishi Agastya. This is part of  Kallahattagiri Parvata or Hills.

Baba Budangiri Hills

It houses the dargah of Baba Budan and also the Dattatreya shrine in a cave. The hill is rich in iron ore. It is one of the highest peaks in the area and it is surrounded by hundreds of  acres of  coffee plantations.
It is also called Rajendra hill. It is 24 kms from Kemmannagundi. Baba Budan was originally known as Hazarath Dada Hayath Mir Kalandar.

Kallahatta Giri

Another hill is Kallahatta Giri. It is 6,115 feet high. It is also known as Chandra Drona Parvatha. The water falls here is among the best.

Horse way

A small narrow path in Kemmangundi is called the Horse way as the Maharajas of Mysore used to go on horse back to view the  sunrise and sunset at  Z point.

 Jagara Pass and  Jagara Valley

This is another scenic place near Kemmangundi. It is just 16 kms  from Kemmannagundi. The valley is full of beautiful flowers, rare plants and wildlife .peaks of Kemmanagundi.

The Rock garden has well laid out pathways carved out of rock. It has a variety of flowers and some of them are rare. The Bhadra Reservoir can be seen from the Rock GardenShankar Sholapradesha

This is five kms from Kemmannagundi. The Department of  Horticulture has been producing potato seeds in five acres here. The Department also grows several vegetables, fruits and flowers

Mullayanagiri

Mullayanagiri is the tallest peak in Karnataka. The temple atop the hill is famous. The road from Kemmangundi to the peak is scenic. The roads are narrow but the Nature is so scenic that you tend to forget everything.

It is the highest peak between the Nilgiris and the Himalayas. Reach out for the clouds here.

Other attractions nearby are Manikya Dhare where eater falls like a pearl drop. Hence the name Manikya or pearl. The Shiva Temple in Kemmangundi is equally well known.

Accommodation is available at Kemmangundi and Kalhatti village. You can easily book accommodation at the office of the Director of Horticulture, Lalbagh, Bangalore. Call 080-26579231 at Lalbagh for details.

Kemmannugundi is 53 km from Chikamagalur and 17 kms from Lingadahalli. The nearest National Highways, NH no-206 or NH no-48 connect Kemmangundi to Bangalore. There is another route via Mullayanagiri, which is simply beyond description. The nearest railway station is Tarikere which is 35 kms away. The nearest airport is Mangalore which is 150 kms away.

Not for nothing is Kemmangundi called the Ooty of Karnataka.

Kemmanhundi today is virtually unapproachable as the roads are being given a major facelift. The quarters of the Horticulture Department have been demolished and new ones are being constructed. The Baba Budan caves too are being repaired and the matter is pending in court. So better check with the Horticulture Department before embarking for the Queen of Hill Stations.   

Motoring down the Tunga and Bhadra

Tunga Paana, Ganga Saana

I had just completed my degree and I came to visit my grandparents at Mysore. After spending some time, I decided to go  to Shimoga where I met a few friends of mine.

All of us had enough time on our hands and we decided to drive down the Tungabhadra river and visit the tourist and pilgrim spots en route to our final destination of  Sangameshwaram in Andhra Pradesh.

We decided to follow the trail of  the Tunga and Bhadra rivers from its origin in Chikamagalur. In the first part of  trip, we split up into two teams and went down the two rivers from their source of origin. We met at Kudli or Koodli near Shimoga where both the Tunga and Bhadra meets and travelled together on the onward jurnet.  So here are some details of the trip.

The Tungabhadra is a river in South India flowing through the states of  Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. During ancient ages, it was called Pampa.

The Tungabhadra is one of the major rivers of Karnataka along with the Cauvery and the Krishna. The Tungabhadra is made up of two rivers-Tunga and Bhadra and both originate in Chikamagalur district in Karnataka.

It has a length of 531 kms and covers a basin area of 71,429 kms. The Tunga and the Bhadra merge at Kudli in Bellary district. The Tungabhadra then joins the Krishna and flows into the Bay of Bengal.

The Tunga originates at Varaha Parvata near Gangamoola. It then flows through Chikamagalur and Shimoga taluks. This river is  147 km long. The water of  the Tunga is very sweet and you can see a lot of ants at the banks of the Tunga in Shimoga. Hence, the adage, “Tunga Paana, Ganga Snaana.”  It means drink Tunga water and bath in the Ganga.

The Tunga merges with the  Bhadra river at Kudli, a small town in Shimoga district.

The Bhadra too originates at Gangamoola but at a different place from Tunga near  Kudremukh. On its downward course it is joined by several smaller tributaries,  Somavahini near Hebbe, Thadabehalla, and Odirayanahalla.

The Bhadra flows through the towns of Kalasa, Horanadu, Balehonnur and N R Pura.

The beautiful Bhadra resrervior is at Lakavalli. The Bhadra then flows towards Bhadravathi and then joins the Tunga at Kudli. It is from this place the river is called Tungabhadra. It then flows eastwards and merges with the Krishna in Andhra Pradesh before emptying itself into the Bay of Bengal.

There re some important pilgrimage and tourist spots on the banks of the Tungabhadra.  The river was a lifeline for the mighty Vijayanagar Empire.

Today, the most important pilgrim spot on the banks of Tungabhadra is Mantralaya. This holy town is home to the Brindavana of Raghavendra Swamy. The Tungabhadra here is wide and also deep.

Lakhs of people visit Mantralaya for a darshan of Rayaru and also to perform Seve. Mantralaya is approachable by road but till recently the road used to get flooded during the rainy season. The nearest railway station is Mantralaya Road from where you have to take a taxi or auto to Mantralaya.

Mantralaya is also motorable from Raichur which is on the banks of the Krishna river. The land between Tungabhadra and Krishna is called the Raichur Doab and it was the bone of contention between the Vijayanagar Kings and Bahamani Sultans.

Please remember that Mantralaya is in Andhra Pradesh but it is very near to Raichur.   

Let me take you to other pilgrim centres across this river.

   

Anegondi

The first capitals of the Vijayanagar Kingdom before it was shifted to Hampi. Anegondi is located on perhaps the most ancient geological land formation. It is just across Hampi.

Anegundi is also known as Kishkinda. Check out the many spots associated with the Ramayana such as the place where Rama first met Sugreeva, the place where Vali and Sugreeva battled, the ash mound of  Vali, the cave where Vali vanished for a long time after which Sugreeva blocked it with a boulder, the place where Rama killed Vali.

Climb the Anjanadri Hill to pray at the post where Hanuman is believed to be born.    

Hampi

The world famous ruins of the Vijayanagar Empire which dominated South India from 1336 to 1565. The entire city is in ruins and very little of the glorious Hampi that foreign travelers described as the most fabulous city in the world is left. Check pout the Hazare Rama Temple, the Vijaya Vittala Temple, the Virupakshi Temple, Kodandarama Temple, King’s Balance, Loctus Mahal, Elephant Stables, Stone Chariot,  Chakratheertha where there is an idol of Yantrodharaka Hanuman and brindavana of Narahari Theertrha.

Other places of interest in Hampi are the Mahanavami Dibba from where the Vijayanagar kings watched Dasara processions,  Queen’s Bath, idols of  Ganesha (Sasvekalu Ganesha).

Hampi is approachable either by road or train. The nearest city is Hospet or Bellary.

Nava Brindavana

Is one of the small islands of Tungabhadra. It is located between Hampi and Anegundi. It is home to nine revered Madhwa saints including Vyasa Theertha. The nine brindavanas belong to Padmanabha Theertha, Kavindra Theertha, Vageeshe Theertha, Raghuvarya Theertha, Vyasa Theertha, Rama Theertha, Srinivasa Theertha,  Sudhindra Theertha, Govinda Odeyar.

Nava Brindavana can be approached either from Hampi or Gangavathi or even Anegundi. Take a coracle ride (called Theppa in Kannada).  

Ankasamudra

It is a small village in Bellary district. It is 25 kms from Hampi and it has many monuments and temples dating back to the Vijayanagar period.

Hospet

The gateway to Hampi. This town was built by Krishna Deve Raya.There is the beautiful Ananthashayana temple on way to Hampi.    

Ganga and Tunga Moola

This areas is in the Western Ghats and it is the place which gives birth to three rivers-Tunga, Bhadra and Netravathi. While the Tunga and Bhadra flow eastwards towards Shimoga, Netravathi flows westwards and joins the Arabian Sea.

Kudremukh is nearby and all the places are a trekker’s delight.

Kalasa

The Bhadra here is majestic. Kalasa is 92 kms from Chikamagalur. It has the famous temple of Kalleswara or Shiva.The name Kalasa is mentioned in Skanda Purana.

Other temples are of Chandranatha Swamy, Hanuman, Venkataramana and Mahalakshmi. Legends say Vasistha had his ashrama here. Check out this spot.

Khalasa contains five theerthas. They are called Pancha Theerthas and they are Vasishta Theertha, Naga Theertha, Koti Theertha, Rudra Theertha and Amba Theertha.

Horanadu

The temple of Annapoorneshwari is perhaps the most famous in this part. It was originally installed by Agastya.  The deity is made of  gold. The surroundings are beautiful. This is 100 kms from Chikamagalur.

Balehonnur

This is a small town on Bhadra river. It is famous for spices.  It is the junction for Sringeri, Chikamagalur, Kudremukh.It is the home of the Rambhapuri Matha. It is 45 kms from Chikamagalur.

The Rambhapuri matha is a Veerashaiva institution with a link with the celestial dancer Ramba and the demon Rambasura.

Many of the films featuring Kannada actor Dr Raj Kumar was shot here. Locals will show you the spots.

NR Pura

Better known as Narasimharaja Pura. It has the beautiful temple of Simhanagadde Jwalamalini. This is a Jain temple and the deity is of Jwalamalini. The idol is black in colour.

Shimoga

Across Tunga river. Shimoga has so many spots of tourist and religious importance that it is difficult to pen them down. A few kms from Shimoga is its twin town Bhadravathi.

The palace of Shivappa Nayaka in Shimoga is worth a visit. The Gajanur dam which is 15 kms away is a beautiful picnic spot. The Tyarakoppa Lion safari is 12 kms away from Shimoga and located on the road to Sagar.

Bhadravathi

It is 20 kms from Shimoga. It gets its name from the Bhadra river that flows through it.

Bhadravathi has several Hoysala style temples. The Lakshmi Narasimha Temple was built by the Hoysalas in the 13th century. The  Hallammadevi temple in the heart of Bhadravathi is the largest temple of Malnad.

Bhadravathi is famous for the VISL steel plant set up by Sir M V Visvesvaraiah.

      

Sringeri

It is on the banks of Tunga.

The seat of the Sringeri Peetha and one of the mathas started by Shankaracharya. The Sharada Temple here is well-known. Legend has it that Shankaracharya was on his Sanchara when he spotted a snake spreading its hood and protecting a pregnant frog.

Sringeri is easily accessible from Shimoga, Bangalore and Mysore.

The Dasara festivities of Sringeri rivals that of Mysore and Madikeri.

  

Kudli

It is also called Koodli. It is in Shimoga district and this is the place where Tunga and Bhadra meet.

The place where these two rivers meet is beautiful. There are three temples here-Rameshwara, Chintamani Narasimha Swamy and Sabgameshwara. Prahalada came and worshipped the idols here.

A Nandi is installed at the place where Tunga joins Bhadra. The Koodli Arya Akshoba Matha was started by Akshoba Theertha, the fourth and the last direct disciple of  Madhwacharya. There is also a Shankaracharya Matha.

Check out the  many inscriptions in the area.     

Harihar

This industrial town is famous for the Harihareswar temple. The idol here is unique as it has the forms of Hari (Vishnu) and Hara (Shiva).

During the Puranic age, this place was known as Guharanya as it was ruled by a demon of that name. Vishnu and Shiva took the form of Harihara and killed Gujasura. This combined entity came to be known as Harihara. The city too got the name.

Kurnool

 
It was the first capital of Andhra Pradesh before Hyderabad. The river Indravathi also called Handri joins Tungabhadra here.

It is called the gateway to Rayalseema. It is 212 kms from Hyderabad and the seventh most populous city in Andhra Pradesh.

The Konda Reddy fort here is worth seeing. There is tunnel leading from the fort to Gadwal. It was closed in 1900. Part of the tunnel is under the Tungabhadra river. This city is home to several ancient temples, mosques and nearly 60 dargas.

Alampur

Not many tourists know that this was once an important centre during the period of the Chakulyas. Alampur is famous for the Nava Brahma temples constructed during the Chalukyan period.

As the name itself suggest, the temples are dedicated to the nine forms of Brahma.

There is also a temple to Jogulamba.

Alampur is 25 kms from Kurnool.   

Sangameswaram

This is the town where the Tungabhadra joins the Krishna. There is a Shiva temple here called Sangemashwaram.

The Sangameshwara temple is accessible only when the water level of the Srisailam dam comes down. Sangameshwaram is 10 kms from Alampur.

When you cruise down the Tungabhadra from Sringeri to Kurnool, you find stone structures acting as embarkment and flood protection walls. These were built by Krishna Deve Raya, the Vijayanagar Emperor between 1525 and 1527. These walls also prevent land erosion during flooding of the river.

PS: The drive through the districts of  Chikamagalur and Shimoga was through some of the most beautiful countryside we have ever seen. Food and accommodation was never a problem as we depended on temples and mathas.

We started our trip from Chikamagalur and motored down to Shimoga and from there turned towards Bellary and Raichur.We were eight friends on four bikes. While four of us went the Tunga way, the others follwed the Bhadra. We met at Koodli and continued the journey from there.

 Of course, we did not follow the river in its line but deviated at several places. The total ride was more than 1400 kms one way. It took us more than a fortnight to reach Sangameswaram.  I did not write about the roads and the manner in which we drove as I thought that these details are not that interesting as the places we covered. I wil uplaod a map and photos later.